
Podcast

Fatou marks her fifth day in Matam as the Senegal River swells and the floodplain wakes up. She visits the riverside quay, checks on the markets, joins a women's dyeing cooperative…

Fatou explores Matam's central market, reflects on the river's low level and the soudure lean season, visits the classified forest, and enjoys a sabar drumming session. She shares…

Fatou spends her third day in Matam watching the Senegal River run low, visiting the riverside market, and learning how the Gamou and regional security concerns shape daily life. S…

Fatou spends a rain-soaked day in Matam watching the Senegal River run low, exploring the historic Soubalo quarter, joining a sabar class at the cultural centre, and sharing dinner…

Fatou travels from Podor to Matam along the Senegal River, arriving in the heart of Fouta Toro. She navigates a quiet town, a remarkably low river, and reflects on the lean season'…

On her final day in Podor, Fatou watches the morning river traffic from the old quay, shares breakfast with a fisherwoman, checks in on her CIE card, and reflects on the flood cres…

On her final day in Podor, Fatou helps with the last of the flood-season chores, shares a meal of thieboudienne with friends at Resto du port, and watches the river climb toward it…

Fatou spends her seventh day in Podor travelling to nearby Fanaye, where the Gamou celebrations are underway. She takes in the preparations, reflects on the river's continued rise,…

On day six in Podor, Fatou follows the rhythm of the old quay at high water, helps a neighbor with her dyeing work in Lao Demba, and reflects on the town's slow patience during hiv…

On day five in Podor, Fatou returns to the Fort de Podor for a quieter look, considers the town's layered history from colonial trade to the present, checks on her CIE application,…

On day four in Podor, Fatou climbs the ramparts of Fort de Podor, eats lunch at Restaurant chez Marie, cools off at SISTERHOOD Coffee shop, and checks in on her CIE residence card…

Fatou spends her third day in Podor at high water, crossing the river to Île à Morfil by pirogue, visiting the flooded gardens, and ending the day at a riverside café with the musi…

Fatou spends the day in Podor's weekly market, sampling street food and watching the river trade at high water. She reflects on the music of Baaba Maal, the colonial trading post h…

Fatou continues up the Senegal River to Podor during hivernage, exploring the flooded waterfront, the colonial fort, and the river-island gardens on Île à Morfil. She eats street f…

Fatou spends her final evening in Saint-Louis with a pirogue ride across the river at sunset, a last meal in Guet Ndar, and a quiet reflection on the city's pulse. She shares what…

Fatou spends her final full day in Saint-Louis crossing the Faidherbe Bridge at dawn, sharing a calèche ride with a local elder, and soaking in the island's hivernage atmosphere be…

Fatou spends Assumption Day in Saint-Louis, reflecting on the city's layered history, the political tensions simmering beneath the surface, and the practical costs of living in thi…

Fatou takes a pirogue up the Senegal River from Saint-Louis, navigating the high waters of hivernage toward the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. Along the way she talks river pilots…

Fatou takes a slow morning stroll across the UNESCO island of Saint-Louis, from the Faidherbe Bridge to the cathedral, and ends with a thieboudienne lunch at La Linguere. Along the…

Fatou spends her fifth day in Saint-Louis in Guet Ndar, watching the fishermen prepare for the sea and learning about the community's fight against coastal erosion. She eats thiebo…
