
Podcast

Dawit explores Harar’s evening rituals, from the khat markets in Aboker to the hyena feeding at Fallana Gate, while navigating residency bureaucracy and planning the journey north…

Day six in Harar sees Dawit navigating the labyrinthine alleys of Jugol, sorting residency paperwork at a local bank, and deepening his understanding of the city’s unique coffee tr…

Dawit explores the labyrinthine alleys of Harar Jugol, visits the Sherif Museum and Rimbaud House, shops at Shoa Gate market, hosts a coffee ceremony, and attends the hyena feeding…

Day four in Harar. Dawit explores the labyrinthine alleys of Jugol, navigates the morning market at Shoa Gate, and sits for a traditional coffee ceremony while discussing residency…

Dawit spends his third day in Harar Jugol, exploring the ancient coffee ceremony traditions, visiting Arthur Rimbaud’s house, and navigating the labyrinthine alleys of the walled c…

Day two in Harar. Dawit navigates the labyrinthine alleys of Jugol, explores the Grand Market at Shoa Gate, and witnesses the ancient pact of hyena feeding as dusk settles over the…

Dawit completes his long drive from Semera to Harar, settling into the UNESCO-listed walled city. He explores the labyrinthine alleys, visits the Rimbaud House, experiences the eve…

On my final full day in Semera, I handle the last banking runs and supply checks before heading north to Lalibela. We talk about the twin towns of Semera and Logia, the rising cost…

On the last full day in Semera, Dawit navigates residency paperwork, finalizes Danakil expedition supplies, and reflects on life in the Afar capital before heading north to Lalibel…

Day nine in Semera: navigating the twin towns, finalizing residency details, and preparing for the Danakil expedition while reflecting on the region's economic shifts. ☕ Enjoying…

Day eight in Semera. I navigate the twin towns of Logia and Semera, manage final residency paperwork, and reflect on the post-Meskel atmosphere amidst political tension and economi…

Dawit navigates the twin towns of Semera and Logia, managing residency paperwork and reflecting on the post-Meskel atmosphere amidst political tension and economic shifts. ☕ Enjoy…

Day seven in Semera. The dust settles after Meskel, the heat returns, and I navigate the twin towns of Semera and Logia while preparing for the Danakil expedition. ☕ Enjoying the…

Dawit navigates the tail end of the rainy season in Semera, balancing residency paperwork with Meskel celebrations. He explores the twin town of Logia, discusses the economic reali…

Dawit navigates the closing days of the rainy season in Semera, balancing residency logistics with the urgent preparations for the Danakil expedition as Meskel approaches. ☕ Enjoy…

Dawit navigates the twin towns of Semera and Logia, discussing the political tension ahead of Meskel, the reality of daily costs in the Afar lowlands, and preparations for the Dana…

Dawit navigates the twin towns of Semera and Logia, exploring the daily rhythms of Afar life, the logistics of the Danakil expeditions, and the quiet resilience of a region in tran…

Dawit moves from the highlands to the Afar lowlands, arriving in Semera as the Danakil season opens. He explores the twin towns of Semera and Logia, reflects on the recent politica…

Dawit spends his last full day in Lalibela before heading north. He walks the ridge to Asheton Maryam, reflects on the weight of the rock-hewn churches, and shares practical advice…

Dawit spends his last full day in Lalibela, walking the ridge to Asheton Maryam as the town prepares for Meskel. He reflects on the rhythm of pilgrimage, the weight of conservation…
